Skin & Aesthetics
Melanotan I (Afamelanotide)
aka Afamelanotide · Scenesse · Melanotan-1 · MT-I · MT-1 · [Nle4-D-Phe7]-alpha-MSH · NDP-MSH · CUV1647 · mt1 · melanotan i
Grade
A synthetic copy of a natural hormone that activates skin pigmentation. The same molecule is an approved medicine for a rare phototoxic disease and, separately, an unlicensed grey-market tanning product.
- Class
- Synthetic alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) analogue; melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) agonist (tridecapeptide)
- Evidence
- Grade A · Approved / strong human evidence
- Sport / WADA
- Not specifically prohibited as such; afamelanotide is not a recognised performance-enhancing agent. (Verify current WADA Prohibited List for definitive status.)
- Last reviewed
- 2026-06
Grade A · Approved / strong human evidence
Why this grade
As the licensed medicine afamelanotide (Scenesse), it is supported by randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled Phase 3 trials and holds EMA (2014) and FDA (2019) approval for erythropoietic protoporphyria (EPP). This grade A applies only to the approved, controlled-release subcutaneous implant for EPP. It does not validate grey-market self-injected Melanotan I powder used for cosmetic tanning, which has no approval, no quality control, and no robust human safety or efficacy data. If graded independently, the grey-market product would be a D.
What is it?
Your body makes a hormone that tells skin cells to produce brown pigment (melanin), which protects you from the sun. Melanotan I is a man-made, longer-lasting version of that hormone. It exists in two forms. In one form, packed into a tiny implant placed under the skin by a doctor, it is an approved medicine called Scenesse. It is given to people with a rare condition where sunlight causes severe pain. More pigment shields them from this reaction. The exact same molecule is also sold online as a tanning injection powder you mix and inject yourself. That version is not approved, not quality-checked, and UK regulators have warned against it. The science behind the medicine is solid. The unregulated tanning version is not.
It is like a prescription drug and a backstreet knock-off sharing a face. The regulated implant is a properly tested medicine handed to a specific patient by a doctor for a real disease. The vial bought online to get a tan is the same active molecule stripped of all the testing, quality control and oversight that made the medicine trustworthy. The grade-A evidence is the medicine's passport, not the knock-off's.
How is it meant to work?
Afamelanotide is a stable, potent agonist of the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) on melanocytes. Binding raises intracellular cAMP, activating the MITF transcription pathway and melanin-synthesis enzymes (notably tyrosinase). This increases production of photoprotective eumelanin. The resulting skin darkening, together with proposed antioxidant, DNA-repair and anti-inflammatory effects, reduces phototoxic reactions in EPP. The same pigment-driving mechanism is why it is misused cosmetically as a tanning agent. Clinically it is delivered as a slow-release subcutaneous implant. Grey-market cosmetic use involves self-injection.
What's it studied for?
Research contexts. Not proven uses, and not recommendations.
Does the human evidence stack up?
Strong for the approved use, weak-to-absent for cosmetic use. For EPP, two randomised, double-blind, placebo-/vehicle-controlled Phase 3 trials (US CUV039 and European CUV029, reported in NEJM 2015) showed the implant increased pain-free direct-sunlight exposure. This underpins EMA (2014) and FDA (2019) approval. Long-term observational data support sustained benefit and tolerability. Vitiligo and other photodermatoses have been explored in investigational studies. There is essentially no robust human trial evidence for the safety or efficacy of self-injected grey-market Melanotan I powder for cosmetic tanning. That practice has never been through controlled trials and uses an unregulated product of unknown identity, content and purity.
What could go wrong?
- !Two products, one name: the rigorous evidence belongs to the regulated Scenesse implant for EPP, not to injectable grey-market tanning powder. Do not let the approval launder the illicit product.
- !Grey-market Melanotan I is unlicensed in the UK. The MHRA has warned that its safety is unknown and that supplying or advertising it is illegal.
- !Unregulated injectable peptide powders carry risks of contamination, variable content, non-sterile reconstitution and injection-site infection.
- !Frequent confusion with Melanotan II (a different, broader-acting molecule more linked to cosmetic injection and reports of darkening or changing moles, nausea and priapism).
- !Stimulating melanocytes raises a theoretical concern about existing moles and melanoma surveillance. New or changing pigmented lesions warrant dermatological review.
- !Common labelled adverse effects of the approved implant include headache, nausea, fatigue and implant-site reactions.
- !NHS access to the approved drug is restricted. NICE did not recommend Scenesse for routine NHS use in England, while the SMC accepted it for NHS Scotland via the ultra-orphan pathway. Even legitimate patients can face access hurdles depending on where they live.
Is it legal in the UK?
Split status. As afamelanotide (Scenesse), it is a licensed, prescription-only medicine in the UK/EU (EMA approval 2014) for preventing phototoxicity in adults with EPP. It is supplied as a clinician-administered subcutaneous implant. NICE (guidance HST27) did not recommend it for routine NHS use in England on cost-effectiveness grounds. The Scottish Medicines Consortium accepted it for NHS Scotland under the ultra-orphan medicines pathway. Access differs by nation. The same molecule sold as injectable Melanotan I powder for cosmetic tanning is an unlicensed medicinal product. The MHRA has warned that its safety is unknown and that advertising or supplying it in the UK is illegal. It is not a legal cosmetic. When marketed for tanning it is an unauthorised medicinal product.
Key trials
- NCT01605136· Phase 3· Completed
Phase 3 study of afamelanotide implant in EPP (United States, CUV039)
One of the pivotal vehicle-controlled EPP trials reported in NEJM 2015.
Sources
- 01Afamelanotide for Erythropoietic Protoporphyria — Langendonk JG, Balwani M, Anderson KE, et al., New England Journal of Medicine (2015)
Pivotal randomised, double-blind, vehicle-controlled Phase 3 trials (US CUV039 and European CUV029) underpinning approval for EPP.
- 02Afamelanotide: A Review in Erythropoietic Protoporphyria — Kim ES, Garnock-Jones KP, American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2016)
Review of afamelanotide pharmacology, trial evidence and approval status in EPP.
- 03SCENESSE (afamelanotide) implant, for subcutaneous use - FDA prescribing information, US FDA (2019)
Official FDA label confirming approved indication, mechanism and labelled adverse effects.
- 04Afamelanotide for treating erythropoietic protoporphyria (HST27), NICE (National Institute for Health and Care Excellence) (2023)
NICE guidance not recommending afamelanotide for routine NHS use in England on cost-effectiveness grounds.
- 05MHRA / public-health warnings on unlicensed Melanotan tanning products, UK MHRA and contemporaneous reporting
Descriptive entry: UK regulator's position that Melanotan tanning products are unlicensed and that supply/advertising is illegal. Exact identifier not asserted; PubMed search link provided.
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